Using the 12/8ths wide purple wool, wrap it around the white cord and pin tight, leaving approx 4/8ths on each side of the wrap and pin in cord tight and sew the cord tight leaving 3/8ths on either side

Taking the 1st two of the outside hat wool pieces, pin right sides together of white with the purple wrapped cord sandwiched in between aligning all 3 ends (cord will be inside more towards the center of the outside hat wool pieces)

Sew along the 3/8" seam allowance (close enough to hide the stitch line along the wrapped cord piece, but not so tight that the piping "recedes" into the cap - check the stitching by inverting it after your stitch and cut in closer on the areas that need to be adjusted) **TIP - create a guide on your sewing machine plate that is 3/8" from the needle and align your edge there when sewing this line)

Cut the unused wrapped cord portion off and repeat with the next outside hat piece - sew as close as you can to the top of the hat, to finish the stitch/seam on the top you will fix this by hand in Step 6

When you reach the last panel, join it to the first with the wrapped cord in the same manner. With a thread and needle, join the top portions of the hat sections together that you were unable to get close with the machine

Set the outside hat aside and taking the 1st two sections of the lining, sew them together along the seam allowance. Repeat until all four are joined together

Put the lining on your head and using a mirror, pinch the material together to take up excess and use a marker to draw a line along your head line on all four seams

Remove the lining from your head and pin along the inside of lines you have drawn and sew along those lines (if you fear the lines are too tight, sew towards the outside of the line (toward the edge) and then try it on, if it's still too big, sew closer to the lines you drew)

Remove the lining from your head and pin along the inside of lines you have drawn and sew along those lines (if you fear the lines are too tight, sew towards the outside of the line (toward the edge) and then try it on, if it's still too big, sew closer to the lines you drew)

Try it on again and check your work till you get a good fit, snug but not too tight, invariably there will be one way that it fits

Mark the front center seam with an "F" so you will not lose it and so you can marry it to the front of the cap. (If you mark it on the seam allowance, you won't see it when the cap is finished). Also turn up the seam allowance to ensure the hat is not too "shallow" if it is, extend the length/height of the pattern for the lining, re-cut the new pieces, and assemble the new pieces for your lining

Set the lining aside. Assemble the front and rear of the crown pieces with right sides together, with the wrapped cord sandwiched in between. Observe the same assembly as you did with the hat piping - be mindful that this entire edge is on a curve, so watch your seam allowances very carefully.

It may require more adjustments than the main hat piping to allow the piping to show properly - once you have it the way you want it, invert it so the right sides are out and the piping is showing. Cut the buckram piece to the exact dimensions of the crown (minus the seam allowance) and as it has to fit inside the crown, cheat in a little when you cut it. Insert it into the inside of the crown or "pouch" of the piece and size it to fit.

(this may take several attempts and trims - cheat up from the seam allowance of the crown, keeping in mind that you will need to fold the seam allowance of the crown in towards the hat and no buckram should get in the way of this fold) ***Make sure you size it so it is on the outside of the pouch, or laying against the wool front panel and is pinned in by the piping seam and the wool (vs. the lining and the piping seam). Sew along the seam allowance of the crown to seal the buckram in Pin/Affix the crown to the outside of the hat, aligning the edges of the crown and the hat and sew the crown along the seam allowance to join the crown to the hat

Taking up the flaps and starting from the center back piping, pin the right sides together (so the flap is up, not down) and aligning the edges, sew along the seam allowance - you may need to adjust the width of the flap (the edge that aligns to the hat) if so, make all adjustments from the rear, not the front - due to the thickness of the fabrics, you may not be able to use a machine to sew all along this line. Machine what you can, and do the rest by hand. Once the flaps are affixed, pull the seam allowances in (trim back a little if desired), and whip-stitch them into the hat - if you whip-stitch and keep your stitch protrusions small, you will not notice them on the outside once the hat is finished

To make the button for the top, take a penny and a piece of the white wool scrap, and cut a circle 2x the diameter of the penny using a heavy thread or sinew, put a running stitch into the outside of the wool circle, beginning and ending on the "underside" of the wool (the underside being the outside). Placing the penny into the center of the circle, draw the sinew tight, sealing the penny inside - twist into a "mushroom" shape and using standard thread, sew from side to side of the "stem" from every side, until the "mushroom" holds it's shape on it's own insert the stem of the "mushroom" into the hole in the top of the hat, using a pair of needle nose pliers to get it fully seated if necessary.

Using another piece of heavy thread and a heavy needle (self awling leather needles work great here) sew through the top seam allowance areas of the hat (careful not to sew through the top of the hat - thus showing the stitches) back and forth from every side until the "button" is anchored into the cap. Take the lining and press the seam allowance out. Insert the lining into the cap and pin into place, first by aligning the four seams with the front, rear, and left and right equivalents.

Then by pulling the cap into a straight line between each of the pairs of pins, pin the excess. (i.e. - put one index finger and thumb at the pin at 12 o'clock and the other finger and thumb at the pin a 3 o'clock and pull to a straight line, then pin in the slack being careful not to misalign the narrower diameter of the lining with the larger of the lining) ***this will result in a slight "gathering" in the hat as the lining pulls the larger hat size into the smaller diameter of the lining. If you keep proper tension using pins and work methodically, you should be able to sew working in a clockwise or counterclockwise fashion without issue.

Finish the cap with a two hooks and eyes joining the flaps below the chin (you may need to shorten the edges to accommodate you) and a hook and eye in the mid-way point in the rear (to help hold it together when up - I sewed one to the outside of the flap so when it was rolled up, it would be hidden on the inside of the roll)

Affix a wool tie (thin strip of your wool scrap) to the center of the back of the crown (roughly 1" from the top of the crown) so that it may tie behind the button thus holding your crown up and out of the way

Affix a wool tie to the rear tails of the flaps to keep them together as shown in the supplied illustration

Picture of the finished Pokelum